Information

  •  About the 2002 model VTR
  •  How to do wheelies

    • About the 2002 model VTR

    Specifications

    Engine type 996cc liquid cooled 4-stroke 8-valve DOHC 90degree V-twin
    Transmission 6 speed
    Carburettors 48mm slanted flat slide CD-type x 2
    Ignition Computer controlled digital transistorised with electronic advance
    Wheel base 1430mm
    Seat height 810mm
    Ground clearance 135mm
    Fuel capacity 19 litres
    Front tyre 120/70
    Rear tyre 180/55
    Dry weight 193kg
    Spark plug standard DPR9EVX-9 (NGK)

    standard vtr outline

    The biggest change for the VTR1000F was in the 2001 model, where a larger tank and new dash were fitted. The old 16 litre tank welcomed an extra 3 litres, making the capacity 19 litres. I was particularly happy about this as one of my common rides is about 250km. I probably could have done it, but not with the gas on.

    2002 model dash

    The new dash is stylish but useful at the same time. A white tacho with bright red dial partly covers the speedo. The clock display remains on even when the key is not in the ignition which is handy. I've found that you still have plenty of fuel left when the fuel bar only shows 2 bars but it goes from 6 bars to 2 very quickly. The 0 on the speedo dial starts back at about 4 o'clock and 100kms is at 6 o'clock so when you're doing 100kms/hr it looks like you're only just beginning...

    The only real difference in a 2001 and 2002 model is the change of colours. But even this is minor. The 2002 range replaces the dark blue of 2001 to a deep sky blue.

    - TOP

    How to do wheelies

    Introduction

    Wheelies are an excellent way make you feel like you are impressing everyone. Before attempting to be a hero, keep in mind that the memory of a failed stunt far outlasts the memory of a winner. Some guys are part timers, and some go out perfecting wheelie-martyrdom until their gearboxes become dust. Some seem to be born with it and some don't, but for most of us the amount of skill and dedication is directly proportional to the risk factor of wrecking your bike and yourself - so be warned.

    In my opinion there are two kinds of wheelies: power wheelies and balanced wheelies.

    Power Wheelies

    When doing power wheelies, the front wheel will start to drop as soon as the speed of the bike exceeds the effective rev range. Power wheelies are a good way to learn because you can practise lofting the front wheel and get instant gratification as a beginner. At least one advantage of the bike slowly running out of rev range is that the front wheel is closer to the ground by the time you are ready to land, so you won't slam the front end down as hard.

    I recommend getting the knack for good power wheelies in first or second gear before attempting a balanced gear-change wheelie - even if you hold it up for 20 metres this is a good start and will help build your feel and confidence. I'd learn in first gear on most bikes, but for powerful bikes such as 1000s above, you might try it in second as first gear could be too aggressive. However, you'll also need more initial speed and rev range for second gear. For a 600cc bike, you'de be looking at around 6000-8000RPM and for a 900cc above, about 4000-6000RPM in first gear.

    - TOP

    Getting it Up

    Some guys use clutch and some don't. I don't use any clutch but some will argue that it is easier and more predictable to do so. For the "dipping" the clutch method, obtain the right speed and approximate rev range (you'll need to figure this out yourself depending on your bike - if you can't then you shouldn't be attempting wheelies). The next sequence of events all happen very quickly.

    Reduce your body weight from the front of the bike and with slightly lower mid range revs, squeeze the clutch, then increase your revs while releasing ("dumping") the lever completely. Give the bars a gentle tug and the front should go up. If it doesn't, you may need to alter the revs and timing of your clutch action. Also, beginners tend to lean forward too much in anticipation of lofting too high. You should practise this until you are confident of getting a reasonable height off the ground each time.

    Lofting the front wheel without clutch is similar except you are relying more on the transferral of weight and power. This means you must get your body weight off the front end and be able to dial in the required amount of throttle at the same time. This is not necessarily more difficult but requires a close understanding of your bikes effective rev range. This is the key. Also, particularly on less powerful bikes, you can preload the front suspension with your body weight just before pulling back on the reigns. When the front suspension rebounds, it will assist slightly in pushing the front wheel against gravity.

    Balanced Wheelies

    A balanced wheelie is quite simply a wheelie where the rider is able to control the amount of speed, acceleration and balance in order to maintain a constant balance point. With practise you will know how far to lift the front wheel in order to have enough height to change gears. To start with you may find the balance point but waver each side of it. After time you can strive to achieve a motionless wheelie.

    The front will naturally waver more when you are changing gears because you don't want too much power dialled in when making clutchless gear changes. I believe that you should aim to get through as many of the lower gears as you can as quickly as possible.

    On bikes with grunty bottom ends, I find it easiest to make at least one gear change just before you obtain the balance point, then you can last longer before running out of revs. This is particularly useful if you are still learning and can only get through one or two gears. Once you can master limitless gear changes on the back wheel, you certainly don't need to read any more of this.

    - TOP